Hundreds of People in Each Room
SAN JUAN – In Puerto Rico, crowds are everywhere. On every narrow sidewalk, one must step off the curb or duck into a doorway to allow approaching pedestrians to pass. The traffic jams out of the capital every evening are of a biblical scale. Smaller towns, too, have bumper-to-bumper traffic through the narrow lanes, and vendors at every corner.
The number of people selling food in Puerto Rico is impossible to exaggerate. Where ever one stands here, several dining opportunities are within view. At street corners, men and women sell fruit. At roadside kiosks, vendors sell all manner of fried and roasted meat. Restaurants fill every building. I know that seems like hyperbole, but when I say that you can’t turn your head without finding a place to eat, I mean it. In people’s homes, from people’s cars, from stand-alone structures and on foot, food is for sale.
Perhaps the most unexpected thing I have found amidst the huddled masses, baking in the heat here is a kind and jovial politeness. Almost without exception, everyone with whom I have come into contact in Puerto Rico has been very nice. Even in situations in which one might expect a degree of curtness or even aggression, there is none. For example, Miriam and I attempted to access the former United States Navy base called Roesevelt Roads on the east side of the island. At three different checkpoints we were turned away. But, each guard with whom we spoke was friendly and polite. In America, security guards are so often complete jerks, that I was taken aback. And, even when it sounds like Puerto Ricans are angry and shouting at one another–and people here are loud, to be sure–it isn’t what it seems. On a sidewalk beside a vast expanse of lawn that sits before San Felipe del Morro, as we enjoyed delicious piraguas, we saw a family pass. The children were shouting as children always do, and the mother seemed to be speaking sternly to them. But, what they were really saying, in Spanish, of course, was how beautiful the kites were, and how nice the weather was.
Puerto Rico is crowded, dirty, and poor as can be. But the people here are warm and friendly. I will miss this.
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