On two different days during our trip to Puerto Rico, we made our way to the narrow peninsula of Old San Juan. Built in the early 1500s, the streets and sidewalks are hilariously narrow, but the architecture is extraordinarily charming. The two and three story flats are all painted bright colors and pastels. Pink, baby blue, lemon, green, tangerine – all with white trim, and wonderful old wood doors.
It’s basically impossible to park on the street in Old San Juan. People do it–and do it very well–but finding an empty spot that isn’t a loading zone or reserved for a particular person or residence would require hours of searching, and some good luck to boot. Once, when we thought we had gotten lucky, a policeman told us that the space, though unmarked, actually belonged to a bank across the street. So, we opted instead to park in a municipal lot. It was only a couple dollars for the whole day.
Our first stop was La Bombonera. It’s a legendary bakery and restaurant on Calle San Francisco. Miriam’s grandparents ate there, and La Bombonera made her parents’ wedding cake. I’ve heard about the place for years, and was looking forward to seeing it in person. There is a window out front with a variety of pastries and desserts on display. Inside, people can sit at the long counter, or in booths. Both were completely full when we arrived, but after a few minutes we took a seat. Our waiter was a jovial old man. He had no teeth, but that didn’t stop him from smiling. He told us he had worked there for fifty years. It is likely, therefore, that he served Miriam’s mother when she ate there as a small girl. I wrote already about the mallorcas, but let me state again for the record that they are delicious beyond description. Behind the counter is an ancient coffee maker, and a modern juicer. The juicer required no human effort at all. Rather, the machine grabbed an orange from a pile placed on top of it, dropped it into a hopper, sliced it in half, then crushed it. It took a few seconds. We ate at La Bombonera twice during our stay.
Just down the street from La Bombonera is Plaza de Armas. It’s small for being so well known, and has a charming fountain. Facing the square is an old municipal building where the mayor of San Juan once held a wedding reception for Miriam’s parents. On a wall inside, the text to “En mi Viejo San Juan” is inscribed near the stairs.
Around the corner is the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista. It’s fairly simple visually. In fact, some of the architectural details inside are illusions, merely painted on. But the church has a rich history. Beneath a marble sculpture along a wall in the transept lay the mortal remains of Juan Ponce de León. It was in this cathedral that Miriam’s parents were married.
From there we walked down to the old city gate, and saw the back of La Fortaleza. On our second day in Old San Juan we were able to tour the castle. Along with the two forts and the old city wall, La Fortaleza is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has been the official residence and office of governors of Puerto Rico for hundreds of years. We had what amounted to a private tour, accompanied by an official guide and a very large plainclothes guard who always walked about twenty feet behind us. The garden was wonderful, and the eighteenth century facade–built to make it look less like a fort, which it was built to be–is handsome, indeed. The view from the west side is splendid, and the east side faces a long street closed to traffic.
The other UNESCO World Heritage Sites we visited were the two great forts: the massive San Felipe del Morro (which everyone calls El Morro), and the huge, but not quite as huge, San Cristobal. El Morro lies at the tip of Old San Juan, jutting out into the water. It was the first thing I spied from the airplane as we were about to land, and it’s impossible to miss. Before it is an open field where people fly kites and picnic. Through the gate is the ticket counter, of course. The major historic sites in San Juan are managed by the National Park Service, but, like almost everything in Puerto Rico, the tickets were cheap. The compound is almost too big to see in one visit if, like me, you have been already fatigued by walking around the city. Plus, there are an almost unlimited number of steps and ramps. There is an almost comical lack of safety apparatus at El Morro: no bars or railings prevent one from tumbling a hundred feet from the gun deck to the rocky shore of the Atlantic Ocean. People are free to climb out onto the high walls, even though the wind blows hard and steady. Elsewhere, deep troughs–probably originally intended for sanitation–are open and unguarded, so that someone (let’s say me) not paying close attention might easily stumble into one. Up near the nineteenth century lighthouse built atop the fort, Miriam overheard a funny conversation. A family was exploring the site, when the teenage daughter began to climb on the rampart. “Be careful you don’t fall”, the dad said, before casually walking away to take photos. The mom, who was with the daughter, responding to something innocuous, like the camera malfunctioning, exclaimed loudly, “oh no!” With little hesitation, but no enthusiasm whatsoever, the father asked the mom, “what, did she fall?”
Deep under San Cristobal, a maze of tunnels lead to different areas of the fort. In one room, a former dungeon, ancient art is still visible on the wall. Modern–but still old–graffiti lines other tunnels.
Between El Morro and San Cristobal are two of San Juan’s most intriguing and intimidating locales: Cemetaria Maria Magdalena and La Perla. The former is just what it sounds like; the latter is the city’s famously colorful slum. La Perla sits on a sliver of land between the Atlantic Ocean and the old city wall. Because of the danger, tourists are advised to steer well clear, which, given the limited access, is easy.
The Museo Pablo Casals sits on Plaza de San Jose. It’s a modest two story building that holds images, documents, and artifacts related to the cellist. They have, in fact, his piano and cello. The young man working there must surely be the world’s foremost Casals authority. All the brochures were in Spanish, so when we asked if he could just give us a little information in English, he proceeded to give us an hour-long lecture about Casals’ life and career. This guy knew everything, and was incredibly nice, too. Admission to the museum was something laughable, like a dollar.
San Juan is an amazing old town, and if you ever get the chance, you should go. Just hire a taxi.
Filed under: Travel on September 13th, 2009 | No Comments »