Chicago is fantastic in every way.
We left Gainesville on Tuesday morning before sunrise. In fact, I probably slept only three hours the night before, and Miriam didn’t sleep at all. We were at Gainesville Regional Airport by 5 AM, and in Chicago by 10 AM (Central). Midway is apparently the neglected step-child of Chicago airports. We took a shuttle bus into the city, and arrived at our hotel hungry.
To solve that problem we started walking, past the busy hot dog vendor in the plaza downstairs from us, and ate instead in Millennium Park, which is a magical place. Many others were there to picnic as well. The weather was perfect – in the low 70s and breezy with white fluffy clouds over head. As we ate our hot dogs we listened to an orchestra rehearse Wagner. From there we crossed the gardens and Grant Park, stopping at Buckingham Fountain (which is enormous), before arriving at the Field Museum. I had visited the Field Museum when I was a child, but that was so long ago I can recall very little of it. I doubt I loved it as much then, too. Everything was amazing, including the T. rex, the plant and animal dioramas, the cases of minerals, and the building itself. They even had a temporary exhibit about mythical creatures, including the Unicorn, and I got to touch a narwhal horn which was once presented as having come from the mythical beast. As Jeff might say, I harnessed the power of the Unicorn.
After all that walking we stopped and had delicious iced novelties at a stand along Lake Michigan. It was the best snow cone in history. For dinner we took a cab up to the tourist-centric Navy Pier, but I was determined to ride a huge Ferris Wheel, and we did. It was great. The moon was rising over the lake, the skyline of the city was spectacular. It was one of life’s perfect moments.
I spent most of Wednesday with Burt, who, unfortunately couldn’t come to town by train, and had to drive instead, spending what must have been a fortune to park. But we had lunch together, then took the subway to the Shedd Aquarium and Adler Planetarium. At closing time we went out and sat on some steps by the harbor. The weather was splendid, but it was as bright as could be. The city looked majestic. Once Miriam was finished with her work activities we all had dinner at Giordano’s, right around the corner from our hotel. It was delicious, and filling. Burt had to be heading home, but Miriam and I walked over to Millennium Park again to listen to an orchestral concert. We heard Respighi’s Pines of Rome. There were so many people out enjoying the evening, and we decided to do the same, once again visiting the popular sculpture Cloud Gate, which everyone seems to love.
I had the next day to myself, and I spent the morning walking around the Chicago River and taking photos of the architecture. Our hotel was right near the Wrigley Building and the Tribune Building, and just a stone’s throw from Marina City. Then I rode a bus down to the Museum of Science and Industry, which is on the south side of the city. Along the way the bus passed by an amazing number of old townhouses with fabulous steps and doorways. I was impressed how even at such a distance from the Loop district, great numbers of people live in high-rise buildings, each of which must have impressive views of the city skyline or the lake. I had been to the Museum of Science and Industry when I was a child, and I remember at the time looking through the periscope of the U-505 submarine and seeing an old car parked in an alley. They’ve since moved the captured Nazi vessel to its own subterranean wing of the complex. The tiniest part of the exhibit made the biggest impact on me. It was a metal identification badge with an eagle on a swastika, above which are the words “GOTT MIT UNS”. What a disgusting claim. The museum has the largest, and therefore coolest model train layout I have ever seen. I played with it for a long time. Proof that it is a big museum: the 727 suspended above the aforementioned train layout and full size locomotive. I stared at the Foucault pendulum for a long time trying to understand it, to no avail. Admission was free; bus fare was only $2, and we passed Soldier Field on the way back. In the evening we went out to dinner, then explored the theater district en route to see Wicked at the Oriental Theater. It was a fancy place, and I was a bit surprised that I actually enjoyed the show a great deal. Credit must be given to the lead actresses, especially Annaleigh Ashford who played Glinda. I can’t imagine enjoying anyone more in the role (except, perhaps, Kristen Chenoweth, but that’s no surprise). I have seen video of other actresses in the role, and I know I would not have liked the show as much had I seen someone else in the part. In any case, the story and feel were far enough removed from The Wizard of Oz that I never found myself comparing the two, which is good because nothing could live up to that standard, particularly Arlen and Harburg’s music.
Friday, the first day of summer, promised to be one of the best of my life. I spend the morning doing more walking around, up Michigan Avenue with its lovely planters to the old Water Tower; along the river across its bridges; and to the Merchandise Mart. What amazes me about Chicago is how an Art Deco building like the Merchandise Mart can coexist with the nearby Gothic, French Renaissance, Structural Expressionist, Beaux Arts, Neoclassical and Chicago Style architecture. Even the horribly ugly Daley Center is rendered less offensive by its proximity to much handsomer structures. All I can say about the afternoon’s pilgrimage to Wrigley Field is that it was a dream come true. It seems smaller in person, but is beyond a doubt the perfect place to watch baseball. For the record, I paid almost $180 for two tickets in section 240, at the end of row 13; the paid attendance was 41,106; the Cubs beat the White Sox 4-3 off a home-run in the bottom of the 9th. I was glad to call my dad during “Take Me Out to the Ballgame”. We beat the crowd back to the Addison station and made our way via bus to a store called Penelope’s in a neighborhood near Wicker Park. The shop girl explained the abundance of young people was due to the relatively low rent (her three-bedroom was $1,000/mo.) Miriam bought some nice new clothes. We rode the train back to the Loop and visited the Art Institute, where we saw many wonderful sculptures and famous paintings. They even had furniture. We got in one last evening walk before a late dinner. The city still felt very safe at eleven o’clock, and the weather was cool and the sidewalks busy.
The next morning we met up with an old friend of Miriam’s, drove through the downtown one last time then had a delightful time at the Brookfield Zoo (gallery coming soon). We stayed Saturday night at a great hotel nearer to O’Hare. It was a much better value than the considerably more expensive Hyatt Regency on Wacker Drive. We spent all of Sunday travelling home, including what seemed like an eternity at Hartsfield-Jackson in Atlanta. I was sitting on the wrong side of the airplane to get a good shot of Gainesville as were were descending, but I got this shot of Waldo Road. We arrived home at six o’clock on Sunday evening after leaving our hotel at 6:00 AM that morning. It was a tough day.
I love Chicago, and if it weren’t ludicrously cold for months on end I would want to live there.
Filed under: Art, Food, General, Sports, Transportation, Travel on June 26th, 2008 | 2 Comments »
To enter the Washington Monument you must have a ticket. Tickets are free, and distributed on a first come, first served basis, so, you might arrive at ten o’clock in the morning and find the only tickets left are for two o’clock in the afternoon. This means that instead of following the schedule you had originally designed for yourself that would involve the Bureau of Printing and Engraving, the FDR Memorial and the National Gallery of Art, you instead see the National Archives and the Jefferson Memorial and call it a day.
The Jefferson Memorial requires a hike, but is well worth it. I love classically inspired architecture, and this structure has about as many columns, steps and pediments as you could fit into a respectable design. Plus, inside there’s a great big statue.
Time didn’t allow a visit to the National Gallery of Art, alas, but I did go through the sculpture garden. Most everything in it sucked big time. But they did have a Calder stabile, so that was nice. One evening I took the Metro to the Dupont Circle stop and visited the Phillips Collection. It’s an art museum in an old mansion in a neighborhood that now houses many of the international embassies. I am very glad that admission was free, because I really only was interested in seeing one thing there. I made a pretty weak attempt to imitate a painting, too.
I am not a painter, nor do I possess any skill at drawing or sculpting. But I appreciate good art as much as anyone. So it never ceases to disgust me when masterpieces are stolen, and whisked away by masked brigands.